With the gradual easing of Covid restrictions, some of the traditional festivals and parties are returning to Portugal. We have missed them for the past two years. First up: Festa de Carnaval dos Caretos de Podence. In the hilly and less-populated northeast corner of Portugal, the tradition of celebrating the end of winter has ties to ancient fertility and agrarian rites. The masked “caretos” visit the homes of friends and neighbors as well as roam the streets in anonymity shaking their “rattles” (cowbells on belts) at the women. Decades ago this was actually a courting process and still includes a night of fake weddings. Now it is more of a party that involves everyone in the community of all ages as well as tourists. Many young men who have left this rural area for jobs elsewhere return each year to participate and keep the tradition alive.  The costumes can take the whole year to make using many hands and are passed down in families. The four-day festival was named in 2016 as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The grand finale of the festival on Fat Tuesday is the burning of the giant careto (see the video below.) 

Below are some photos from the festival as well as a few of the lovely surrounding area of this Tras-os-Montes region.

Matrafonas are women immune to the advances of the caretos.

A brief video of the festivities including the burning finale.

There is so much natural beauty in the Tras-os Montes region. We will be returning:

We saw ancient chestnut trees...
...and flowering almond trees.

We stopped in a teeny village and this adorable woman came scurrying out of her home to unlock the church for us to see. Time to practice our português.